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Goals for March 2012

Ever feel like you get into a creative rut? or an unproductive rut? Well to help me out of mine and to keep growing my current skill set, I have set 3 creative goals for March.

This year I really want to grow in my creative productivity, stretch my graphic design skills and of course enhance my sewing and pattern making ability. To help me accomplish that, I need well defined goals! So for this month, March 2012 ( can you believe we are already well into 2012!)  this is what I want to accomplish:

I want to brush up on my tailoring skills with the help of Clare Shaeffer’s ‘Couture Sewing Techniques’, and sew a  hand tailored, (well it might actually include fusible tailoring) fully lined blazer.  Due to time I will most likely choose an existing pattern. This gorgeous jacket is by Paul and Joe, a few seasons ago. I love that its double breasted, has quite fine lapels and that it is long line. So hoping to find a similar pattern.

Textile design is something that I have been wanting to do for what seems like forever. March seems like a good time to start. Currently I have been inspired by Australian designer ‘Gorman’ and I think I might aim to design a square silk scarf, maybe geometric like this Gorman one. I am also always inspired by Paul and Joe’s graphic prints that they use for both apparel and beauty packaging. I love their use of cute animals, colour and pattern.

// Hatch Creative // 

While its not really a creative stretching goal, it is a goal and a creative one! Lately I have been a little concerned with the air quality around our home, especially since I spend around 8 hours + on a computer and I am surrounded with wireless technology which I although I am a fan, not 100% sure of what it may be doing to me! One solution to help make a more healthy indoor environment is to include plants! I love this wall display designed by Hatch Creative, the vintage vessels and mismatch of flowers and would love to try a small plant collection in our workroom and consciously breathe a little easier.
So those are my goals for the next 3 weeks. I so hope I can achieve them and that I haven’t been too ambitious. Feeling a little nervous already, but excited to start.


{How To:} Sew the Easy Kimono short sleeved Dress Pattern

The Easy Kimono Short sleeved Dress Pattern is great for beginners, with no zips or tricky techniques, just basic sewing skills. This tutorial is to support our beginner sewers and show you through photos, step by step how to create it!
Get the pattern from my online boutique or on Etsy.
Cutting Out: 

I like to give my fabric a quick press before cutting out, and also check it for any imperfections. I also recommend washing all your fabric and trims before sewing to take out any shrinkage that can occur.

Fold your fabric in half, lengthwise. With the rightside of the fabric in the inside, align the selvages of the fabric. The selvage is the edge of the fabric that runs along either edge of the fabric roll. This edge prevents the fabric from unravelling.

Insert pins along the selvages and fold, at right angles to keep the fabric flat and straight.

I use a long ruler to align the edges of the fabric, so that the grain of the fabric is straight along the length of the fabric. You could also use the edge of your cutting or sewing table. If you are using a particularly slippery and drapey fabric, use two rulers. One across the width of the fabric at right angles to the straight edge to make sure that the grain is evenly distributed and straight.

Using the cutting guides included in the pattern, select the right diagram by the choosing the correct pattern size and width of your fabric, lay your pattern on the fabric replicating the cutting guide.

For pattern pieces on the fold, ensure that the fold of the fabric is straight and lines up perfectly with your pattern edge. Pin along the fold first, before pinning the corners and edges.

For pattern pieces not on the fold, align the grain-line of the pattern, parallel with the selvage or fold of your fabric.
Measure the distance at each end of the grain-line to ensure that the grain-line is perfectly matched to the straight grain of the fabric. If the pattern piece is out, even slightly, this can dramatically effect how the garment hangs on the figure.
Measure at either end.

Continue pinning all pieces on to your fabric and cut it out using good quality and sharp fabric scissors! Don’t forget to clip into the fabric at the marked notches.

Sewing the Dress Bodice:
1. Back Bodice: With right sides together, matching notches and raw edges place back bodices together and stitch the centre back seam, starting at the notch, sew down to the waist with a 1cm / 3/8” seam.

Clip into the seam allowance at the notch, right to but not through the stitching.

Neaten edges separately from the notch down and press seams open.

Shoulder Seams:
Place Front bodice over Back bodice right sides together and match up the shoulders. Align notches and raw edges.
Stitch each shoulder seam with a 1cm / 3/8” seam.Because the pattern has a slight point at the end of the shoulder seam (this is to assist in the seams and facing lying flat, once facing is turned to the inside) it is easier and you get a better result if you sew to where the point begins, lower the needle and leave in the fabric, then raise the presser foot, and pivot the fabric so that the raw edges of the point is lying inline with your seam guides on your machine. Lower the presser foot and continue to sew to the end.Use this technique to sew the shoulder and underarm seams of the facings also.

Neaten edges together and press towards the back of the garment. To help seams to lie flat, when sewing on the facings, clip into the seam allowance just before the point.

3. Side Seams: Align the bodice side seams and stitch a 1cm / 3/8” seam on each side seam. Neaten edges together and press towards the back.

4. Armhole Facings: apply fusing to the wrong side of the armhole facings, as well as to the wrong side of front and back neck facing. Use a medium to low heat (depending on fabric) and use an up and down, pressing motion with the iron not a back and forth motion.
With right sides together join the shoulder and under arm seams of the armhole facing by stitching a 1cm / 3/8” seam and using the pivoting technique discussed earlier to create a sharp and accurate seam. Clip in to the seam allowance as on bodice.


Neaten edges separately and Press seams open on facings to reduce bulk at the seams.

Turn dress bodice right side out. With armhole facings wrong side out, place facings over dress armhole opening, matching all seams and raw edges. Stitch a 1cm / 3/8” seam all the way round the armhole opening.

Trim seam allowance to 6mm / ¼”. Clip into curves if necessary to help facing to turn easily.

Turn facing out and press seam allowances into the facing.

Trim corners of seam allowances on a diagonal to reduce the bulk and assist in facing lying flat.

On the right side of the facing, understitch, through all seam allowances, close to the seam. Understitching is a straight stitch, sewn on facings and pocket linings, sewn close to the seam and catching the seam allowances underneath. It assists in keeping the facing to the inside of the garment, preventing it from rolling to the front.

Neaten the lower edge of the armhole facings and press facing to the inside of the armhole.

Secure the facing to the inside by pining facing at both shoulder and underarm seams and stitching a tack from the right side of the garment at the base of the facing, right in the seam. Stitch about 3 stitches and backtack.

Neck Facing:
Join back neck pieces together at the centre back seam, with right sides together matching notches and raw edges, Stitch a 1cm / 3/8” seam from the notch down to the lower edge. Clip into the seam allowance at the notch, right to but not through the stitching. Neaten edges separately and press open.

Join back neck facing to front neck facing by placing front facing over back facing right sides together and align shoulders. Stitch the shoulders with a 1cm / 3/8” seam, neaten edges separately and press open.

Rouleau Loop: with right sides together, fold loop in half, lengthwise and sew a 1cm / 3/8” seam.

Trim allowance to 6mm / ¼”.

Turn right side out, by threading a needle with thread, stitching a couple of stitches through one layer of fabric at one end and tunneling the needle (without catching any fabric) through the tube. Pull needle through to pull rouleau loop right side out.
Trim loop to 5.5cm / 2 1/8”. Fold in ½, and place at the notch on the right side of the back bodice neck. Stitch to secure just shy of 1cm / 3/8”.
With the dress bodice turned right side out, place neck facing on to bodice, right sides together, matching seams and raw edges.
Stitch a 1cm / 3/8” seam from the clipped notch at center back keyhole opening up and around the back and front neck to the other notch.

Trim allowance to 6mm / ¼” and clip into curves (if necessary) to assist turning. Trim corners on a diagonal to reduce bulk.

Press seams up into the facing. Understitch neck facing starting and finishing just before and after the center back seam. You won’t be able to stitch right up to the center back opening.

Turn facing to inside the garment and press.

Secure facing to inside by tacking facing at the shoulder seams in the same way as you tacked the armhole facings.


Join front and back skirt together at the side seams by placing right sides together and aligning raw edges. Stitch a 1cm /3/8” seam. Neaten edges together. Decide and mark on the wrong side of skirt, which will be the back. Press seams towards the back.

Press over 1cm / 3/8” , then press up 8 cm / 3 1/8”, Topstitch.
Joining skirt to bodice:
Turn skirt wrong side out and place bodice inside skirt, right sides together. Match side seams and raw edges of the waist seam. Stitch waist seam with a 1cm / 3/8” seam. Neaten edges together.

Elastic waist:

Cut 6mm / ¼” elastic to stated sizes below:

  • SIZE XXS: 57cm
  • SIZE XS: 62cm
  • SIZE S: 67cm
  • SIZE M: 72cm
  • SIZE L: 77cm

Overlap elastic ends 2cm / ¾” and join together with a narrow zigzag stitch.

Fold elastic in ½ and insert pins to mark. Fold in ½ other way and mark again with pins.

Find the center of the front and back by folding in half and matching seams, place pins at centre.

Place elastic over waist seam of dress and match pins of elastic with centres and side seams of the dress waist.
Stitch elastic over the top of the waist seam with a straight stitch, pulling and stretching the elastic to bring in the fullness between pin marks.
Cover a button in matching or contrasting fabric and sew onto the left back bodice neck. Give your lovely new dress a good final pressing and wear it out!

{Project} ~ Rosette Bib Necklace


This post is in no way original! Fabric rosettes and necklaces have been doing the rounds in blogging sphere in a big way. You only have to google “Bib necklace” to find an array of D.I.Y tutorials and blog posts devoted to this project. Its a little bit crafty and a little bit shabby chic, but… its popularity in no way diminishes the desirability of this delightfully sweet, simple and fashionable adornment.


~ How to create a Fabric Rosette:
Cut a strip of fabric about 1.5″/ 3cm wide and about 50cm /20″ long. The longer the fabric the bigger the flower. Tie a knot in one end and trim off the end close to the knot.
Tuck the knot back on its self and begin to roll the fabric around it, turning and twisting the fabric strip in, towards the centre of the flower.
Keep rolling, turing and twisting. Use a little dab of fabric glue every now and then to secure the fabric twists, or you could hand sew them too! I tried both gluing and sewing, and found using glue much quicker, easier and less fidely!
When you have a flower of desired size, twist the fabric strip to the underneath of the fabric, trim off and glue to the flower base and make another one!  Sew a couple of beads in the centre of your flowers!
~ How to make the necklace:
Once you have made several flowers of different sizes, arrange you flowers on a piece of paper in a bib like shape.
Draw around your flowers to make a pattern that you will use to cut out of felt for the backing of your necklace. Keeping your flowers in the same arrangement, slide the paper out and trim your pattern by at least 6mm / 1/4″ so that no Felt will be visible from the front.
Place your pattern on your felt, draw around it and cut it out. Ball point pen is the easiest medium to glide over the felt.
Fabric Ties:
Place an end of your ribbon tie about 2″ / 5cm on the felt and glue down using fabric glue. Repeat for the other side.
Dab glue on underneath of your flowers and press heavily on to the felt. I also dabbed a small amount of glue between the flowers to help stabilize the necklace. Tie a bow at either end or knot the ribbon ties to help it lie flat and your done! Ta dah!
Heres the view from the back:
~ Enjoy,